2021 Moscato Giallo

Let’s just say this wine wasn’t born under the calmest of circumstances. Vintage 2021 was still deep in the shadow of COVID — and with that came a major shortage of hand-pickers, especially in regional Victoria. This fruit came out of Heathcote, and when I asked the vineyard manager if he could lock in a crew, he basically said “We’ve only got one, and it’ll be three weeks.”

Not ideal. So we went with plan B: machine-pick in the dead of night, when the fruit was perfectly ready. I organised a refrigerated truck to collect the fruit, which had to go back to Melbourne first before jumping on a cold semi up to Brisbane. Because of the heat and timing, by the time the bins landed in our shed, fermentation had already kicked off — the sulphur didn’t stand a chance.

But we were half-expecting it, so the plan was simple: pull the liners out and let it rip.

This is Moscato Giallo like you’ve probably never had it. Yes, it smells like a flower shop — jasmine, orange blossom, lemon verbena — but don’t let that trick you into expecting something sweet and simple. This is an orange wine, fermented on skins like a red, and then left to soak for three months post-ferment. It’s grippy, savoury, spicy, and full of life.

The palate is layered and textured — like a cup of strong chamomile tea mixed with citrus peel, white pepper, and apricot skins. The aromatics are heady, sure, but underneath it all, it’s about tannin, texture, and tension.

This isn’t Moscato for your nan. This is a whole other beast.

Serve it slightly chilled — just enough to keep the florals in check and let the texture shine.

– Moroccan tagine with apricots and spice — perfect match for the fruit/savoury combo.
– BBQ prawns with harissa or something smoky and a bit punchy.
– Pumpkin curry or anything with turmeric and ginger — this wine holds its own against big flavours.
– Washed rind cheese or gooey, funky cheese in general — the floral lift and grip are perfect with creamy, intense dairy.